Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Friday, September 16, 2011
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Thursday, May 19, 2011
i decided to share on basis, on how to build a pond.
For those who wants to build their own pond, the common thing that we all know,want is try reducing the cost.
Let's get started :
1. decide where to build the pond. when you have a place in mind, visualize what kind of pond do you want.
2. do some homework on how to do the labour work such as concrete, plaster, piping etc. I'm not going to go deep on this.
3. There are several tools you need to have such as grinder, concrete/mortar tools etc.buy from time to time, i spend around 2-3 hundreds on tools.( become handy for other projects)
4. Once you got the general idea, draw an outline of your pond on what to do, what needed etc.
I,ll go phase by phase, together with the tools and things needed.
5. start digging. it's better to dig bigger than actual size because you can have a space to work.(you never know what buried under it, mainhole,piping,hard rock etc).
6. After you got the space, the first thing to do is to make a base and wall(don't make it high at first. Please refer my post.
to be continue......
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
Has this incident happened to anyone of you guys? it happened few months back. So I realized I might share with you.
I read lots of articles and ebook on how to keep minimum water surface fro the edge of the pond..at least 6 inches. Mine is more than 12 inches BUT she still can jump off the pond. I think this is a rare case. Luckily, at that time I still awake, heard a knocking sound, 5 minutes later I came out, and saw her bleeding,with her mouth searching for someone to give her CPR.huhuhuhu!
For those who wish to build one, this factor matters.
Tuesday, May 3, 2011
My 5 days trip to Beijing was not as happy as i thought. The food was too salty, oily and worst to come their toilet was horrible. I'm not sure about the air quality, it was foggy, not sure from vehicles or from the sand storm.
I get the chance to visit Great Wall, Summer palace etc. Took nearly 1000 photos!It was breathtaking to see with your own eyes on of world's 7 wonder. If you like to see historical, beautiful scenery..then this is the place!
If you plan to visit China on a package, be prepare to visit at least 5 Government shops like pearl, silk, medicine factory etc..That sucks!
Last day, we went shopping at silk market. The price was totally outrages,I can't tell you how stupid the price was. Just imagine, I bought a Jeep Jacket where the original price was 2400 yuen!(RM1200). How much you want to bargain??? If you ask for 400yuen(RM200)then you are totally been "slaughtered"! bad experience when shopping there!
In my opinion, Shanghai is much better than Beijing. Only the weather, last time I went, it was -1 degree!!!
Star rating on Beijing : 3/10
Some photos to share.
Bird Nest Stadium - A stand storm appeared after the photo shot, so we didn't enter the stadium.
Summer palace - The emperor was a.&%*^.i can't explain it...all the places visited was all humongous!(what for?, maybe to show power)
Beijing Hard Rock Cafe
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Look at that murky greenish water!(wonder how the fish survive?)
Look what I found!!!!There are 2 actually..he!he!
It was a mixture of murky and muddy composition!
Nearly cramped my hand washing these matt!
Back from the office at 6, I made up my mind to get the job done...that is cleaning the pond. Changed my cloth and a decent short, i started late at 6.30. This because i bought a wrong battery for the bubble pump (to be inserted in the temporary container for the fish).
To tell you the truth, i might clean up my pond..errr maybe another 6 months! It requires a huge amount of energy to do the task. I need to scrub the mud/dead algae,in the pond, in the SC.(Luckily only 2 SC involved). Check out the blue matt! full of debris/fish waste ..i don't how to call it and of course, it smells like a $%&* spirit! he!he!
I finished doing all the major cleaning around 7.59PM.Take a quick bath with shampoo shower etc.., prayed and continue the work. Poured an anti-chlorine, the moved the fish back to their new fresh clean home. It took nearly 2 hours to fill the pond with tap water.
I had a bad experience/valuable knowledge today on how to clean the pond AND that not it... the main thing is...HOW TO BUILD YOUR POND with a top notch preparation!!!! I DO HAVE that knowledge now!
Wanna know how???
Monday, April 4, 2011
1. Life is short - Prepare yourself in spiritual and lots of planning ahead
2. You have to do something good in your life, a target to achieve or something..at least do something that you want to do.
3. Love your loves one. You don't know when the time come...:)
4. If you have kids, love them, be their friend, be a good father(give some carrot, give some cane)
5. Enjoy life..life is great, it does not reflect at all whether you are rich or poor. it's all depend on how you control your life.
6. Money is not a big issue (some has) because if you have lots of money but you don't have time to spend it or worst to come ..you don't have time for your family...that's pity!
Hope this will enlighten you guys & for me as well..food of the day!
have a nice day!
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Koi Pond: Biological Filters
Contrary to common belief, biological filters do not process or filter the solid waste of fish in your koi pond. They continue to build up and putrefy, creating a breeding ground for harmful species of heterotrophic bacteria which are pathogenic to koi fish. As stated, the biological filtration process utilizes Nitrosomonas bacteria to break down ammonia into nitrite and nitrobacter, further converting nitrites into nitrates, which is less harmful to koi fish.
Plants now utilize the nitrate and phosphate for fertilizer; if you have not provided an adequate ratio of water plants to koi fish, “hard” algae (growing on rocks and koi pond walls) and “free- floating” algae use nitrate and phosphate to reproduce. The key to preventing this condition, called “algae bloom,” is to provide enough nonsoil bearing plants such as water lettuce and hyacinths to compete for the nitrate and phosphate. Since these two plants are tropical and can only survive in warm climates, hardier varieties such as Elodea and Anacharis will perform well in cold climates. These plants are commonly used in bio-filter ponds.
A bio-filter pond is used in conjunction with shallow koi ponds with small populations of koi fish. It will also eliminate the need for a mechanical bio-filter and a second pump to operate it. The bio-filter pond is located higher than the main pond for two reasons. It prevents the koi fish from eating the plants and it allows the water from the waterfall to be filtered as it passes through the plants prior to spilling into the lower koi pond.
An adequate ratio of plant cover for the koi pond’s surface is approximately 20 to 30 percent. This is a basic rule of thumb and many factors can change this equation. For example: koi fish population, water temperature, and debris accumulating from leaves or over-feeding the koi fish. I have said many times that the Koi Pond is the koi’s living room, dining room and toilet.
If you do not have a bio-filter, that could explain why your koi pond is a tad green, stinky, or cloudy, and why your finned family is gulping air on the surface. Trust me. That will not be for long. Fish gulping air to survive would be like you -- in an attempt to avoid breathing poisoned air -- gulping water to survive. I have a do-it-yourself simple instruction sheet with diagrams, for building your own bio-filter using $25-$35 worth of parts from any home improvement store. Also includes a shopping list of necessary items. download free (no sign-in) no obligation... http://www.askdoughoover.com/
Happy koi, peace and joy.
Tuesday, March 15, 2011
Pond aeration is the process of providing air or oxygen to the body of water within a pond. This can predominantly be achieved by 3 different methods. They are:
A diffused aerator or air bubbler
A high volume surface aerator
A fountain aerator
A diffused aerator (or air bubbler or air pump, as they’re commonly called) consists of an air pump that is attached to a piece of air tubing with an air diffuser or air stone attached at the end. The air pump sits on the shore and pushes air into the pond via the tubing. The air stone or air diffuser breaks down the pressure from the air pump into tiny air bubbles that get dispersed throughout the pond. The smaller the air bubbles are the better, as the water molecules absorb some of the air molecules into it.
It’s important to aerate the entire body of water, from the very bottom of the pond to the surface, as living creatures such as fish, turtles, etc. need this air to survive. Using a diffused pond aeration system also helps to provide air to the deep, stagnant areas within the pond or lake where unhealthy water conditions occur (and where your fish want to go for more consistent water temperatures).
High Volume Surface Aerator or Paddlewheel Aerator
A high volume surface aerator or paddlewheel aerator is a water pump (not an air pump) that floats on top of the water and rapidly churns the water thereby providing a lot of water agitation. Through this agitation, the water near the surface of the pond is aerated. This may be ideal for very shallow ponds around 3 – 4′ deep. It is also ideal to use a surface aerator if you have problems with floating pond weeds such as duckweed or watermeal and want to divert these weeds closer to the shore where they can be scooped up or treated.
A fountain aerator is a floating fountain that consists of a water pump, nozzle and long electrical cord (typically around 50 – 100′ but custom lengths may be available.) The water pump sucks up water from a few inches to a few feet within the pond and shoots the water up through a fountain nozzle. Air molecules then attach themselves to the water droplets and fall back into the pond. This is how the pond gets aerated.
A fountain aerator can be beautiful to look at and some come with optional light kits that can be attached to the floating fountain assembly. This makes the floating fountain aerator have a pretty night time and day time display. A variety of fountain nozzles can be used with a fountain aerator too, which offers different spray patterns.
BENEFITS OF DIFFUSED AERATOR, SURFACE AERATOR AND FOUNTAIN AERATOR
A diffused aerator or air pump is the most ideal aerator for ponds, lakes or tanks. If the correct size of diffused aerator is properly placed, it will provide aeration for the total volume of water within the pond, from the bottom, all the way up to the pond’s surface. They can also be cheaper to operate as it requires less pressure to push air via an air pump or compressor than it does to push water through a water pump. However, a diffused aerator isn’t anything pretty to look at and the air pump or compressor needs to be protected from the rain, snow, dirt blowing into it, etc.. This can easily be achieved by placing a vented fake rock cover over it, a bucket propped up over it or anything else to protect it from the elements.
Another benefit to using a diffused aerator is that the air pump can be plugged into an electrical outlet (available in 110 or 220 volts) in a nearby barn or garage (potentially hundreds of feet away) and the air tubing ran down to the pond’s edge where the air diffusers would be attached. This makes it convenient to utilize the electricity you may already have available in a nearby barn instead of needing electricity installed near the pond’s edge. For many folks, this can be a great distance and not practical. A diffused aerator should ideally be operated 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year for optimal aeration. When used in the winter, a diffused aerator or air bubbler can also help keep an area on the surface of the pond from freezing over solid. This opening in the ice is vital to keeping the fish alive and healthy during the cold winter months.
A fountain aerator can provide the water feature that one may be looking for in their backyard pond or subdivision, but doesn’t provide aeration throughout the entire body of water. A fountain aerator is also more expensive to run as it requires more energy to push water through a water pump than it does air through an air pump. With the addition of optional fountain lights added on, there is also additional cost to operate. A fountain aerator will also have to be removed from the pond during the winter in areas where it gets freezing temperatures.
A floating fountain aerator however, typically does not aerate the entire body of water within a pond. The floating fountain pump can suck up water from a few inches to a few feet within the pond (depending on the kind) which in turn, gets aerated but it doesn’t touch the deeper water within the pond where the water can become stagnant. This is where a diffused aerator beats a fountain aerator in providing total pond aeration.
A surface aerator such as a high volume surface aerator or paddlewheel aerator works at the surface of the pond constantly churning the water which provides ‘some’ pond aeration. They are designed for shallow water areas. If the proper size and quantities of surface aerators are used and properly placed, they ‘can’ provide total pond aeration. They can be the best choice for large ponds and lakes where the water is shallow, less than 6′ deep or where there are floating pond weed problems that you want to divert towards the shoreline.
WHICH AERATOR IS RIGHT FOR YOU?
There are no two ponds or water gardens the same and each has its own needs. There are however, general rules of thumb to follow regarding aeration systems. As noted above, if you’re wanting total pond aeration and your pond or lake is at least 6′ deep, then the best choice of aeration for your pond would be a diffused aeration system. There are manufacturers who design these systems so each diffuser or air bubbler works optimally, allowing the greatest amount of air bubbles throughout your pond based on a specific size of air pump or compressor. These aeration kits make it easy for a customer to choose. Simply look at the size of pond the aeration system is designed for (usually tells you right in the product title or product description) and presto! You’ve gotten the right size of aerator for your pond. Now, your pond has excessive algae growth, a huge amount of fish or something out of the ‘ordinary’, then you may have to go with a larger size of aerator. If in doubt, just ask customer service.
If you’re wanting to look at something pretty, then the best choice would be a fountain aerator but realize that your pond is not getting aerated from the very bottom to the top of the pond. Unhealthy conditions will occur if the pond is not totally aerated. No, it may not happen right away, but after a period of time, these unhealthy conditions can turn into smelly water, dying fish, etc.. Perhaps the best thing may be to have a diffused pond aerator in addition to a fountain aerator if you’re wanting overall, good pond health and a pretty fountain to look at.
HELPFUL TIP WHEN PURCHASING YOUR AERATOR
Take advantage of the designed aeration kits available today instead of trying to ‘piece-meal’ your aeration kit together. Manufacturers have made all the calculations required so the air pump, air diffuser or air bubbler and a given length and diameter of air tubing work optimally together. It can be a whole lot cheaper to buy a pond aerator kit rather than buying each piece separately.
Take advantage of additional information regarding different types of air pumps and pond aerators, what type of aeration system you may need, helpful information on how to get rid of pond algae and other pond maintenance information.
Check out PondSolutions.com for a complete list of thousands of pond supplies including pond aeration systems.
Credit to :
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
1. Temporary container for the fish.
2. The net to catch the fish ( already have)
3. Temporary oxygen supply (already have)
4. Degradable washing liquid...is it necessary?
5. Extra man power...i.e the kids? i don't think so...he!he!
Will upload the processes soon!
Monday, February 28, 2011
From time to time, i'll search for new articles/from my own write up to be published in this blog.
Maintaining Good Oxygen Levels in a Koi Pond
Author: Casey Coke
When browsing through your local fish store's medicine and testing aisle, you probably won't find a test for oxygen. The importance of sufficient oxygen in your pond water is often understated, and misunderstood. While most fish owners understand the importance of low nitrates, did you know that low oxygen levels is one of the most lethal silent killers in the fish hobby?
The most common cause of low oxygen levels in a Koi pond is the overuse of algaecide. When it comes to treating algae with chemicals, more is NOT always better. In fact, as algae die off, oxygen levels in your water plummet. Most experienced aquarium and pond hobbyists can attest to the horror of treating for algae and finding your entire fish stock dead within an hour from asphyxiation.
Unlike nitrite, nitrate and metal poisoning, there's no treatment for low oxygen levels once the fish begin to starve for air and experience stress. It can kill within an hour, and if you don't catch it quickly (i.e. within the first 10 minutes), your fish usually have no chance of recovery. Fish suffering from low oxygen levels will start to linger at the surface of the water, usually gasping for air. After the first 5-10 minutes, the fish will lose control of their swim bladder and begin to struggle to stay upright. Within the next 45 minutes or so, internal damage to the vital organs occurs. Literally, the fish shuts down, fails to breath and quickly dies.
For every pond owner with Koi, preserving oxygen levels can be very challenging. You have a very large volume of water, and if you've planned it your pond correctly, you have several deep pockets of water. You're more likely to struggle with oxygen levels in your pond true if you're establishing a new system, or struggling with algae in an existing one. Luckily there are some easy inexpensive ways to keep oxygen level high in your pond to keep your fish happy and healthy.
The first tool to keep oxygen levels high is circulation. A lot of people have the perception that air bubbles or air stones will provide sufficient oxygen. While these air systems help, it's not the action of the air bubbles rising from the bottom that provides oxygen. Instead, it's the breaking of the surface of the water that allows oxygen exchange. When you have sufficient movement across the surface of the water, your oxygen levels will rise.
When treating for algae, this becomes even more important. Add an extra power-head to your pond when you use chemicals such as algaecide. Point the power-head up so you have plenty of surface movement. This simple step prevents the tragedy of losing your precious Koi to something preventable as low oxygen levels in your water.
Another commonly overlooked tool in increasing oxygen level is plants. Plants also help to naturally control algae! When you add plants to your pond, the plants compete with microbial algae cells for carbon dioxide consumption. Keeping your pond at least 1/3 covered in plants keeps your water clear and algae free. Best of all, plants help release oxygen into the water, which keeps your levels in balance. A great alternative to potted pond plants are floating plants such as water hyacinth or water cabbage. The most successful ponds contain lots of plants, which keep your water and your fish healthy.
Remember to conduct regular water changes for your pond, depending on your bio-load. Koi are messy fish, and if you have a fully stocked pond, you should aim for one 25% change per week. Water changes replenish oxygen and vital buffers that help keep your water stable. There's nothing more helpful than regular water changes for your pond. Remember- if you take care of your water, your fish will generally take care of themselves because they will have a naturally supporting environment that fosters health.
Casey Coke is a Marketing Manager for Natural Environmental Systems, LLC, a global supplier of microbial solutions for pond and lake management. The company markets their own brand of koi pond supplies under the registered brand name of Pond Keeper
Article Source: http://www.articlealley.com/article_750056_54.html
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Today, i'm going to share with you some tips on how to build your own pond within your budget and of course, you have to make it on your own. :)
Here's a few tips :
1. Do some research on the net (like my blog on how DIY pond)
2. After you get the general idea on how your pond will look like, skecth some layout and things to buy, like bricks, sand, cement, tiles, pump, piping etc. List down all on a piece of a paper.
3. Also, visit local hardware to compare/ gather prices for each items.
4. To save cost and reduce tile cutting etc., calculate the tile measurement wisely.
5. Start your digging!!!!
6. If you read my previous post, you will get the idea on how to make it happens!
7. Be patience and set your deadline when to accomplish your project.
Friday, February 18, 2011
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
I made up a simple sketch for khairul regarding on how the SC/piping works. This is just a basic idea. Anyway, just in case if you still can't figure it out, drop me some questions,Ok. This knowledge is based on my reading and my proven testimony (my pond). It works!
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
As promised, uploaded are 5 out of 9 of my koi. 4 of them are very hard to catch...out of 4, there's 1 koi that has white skin with yellow dot on it.The rest are almost the same.
This is the biggest so far and the most expensive..he!he!
When i bought this one, it was 1/2 of its size.
Bought the same day and same size with koi3
This orange koi is the champion in terms of growth among their friends.
Monday, January 31, 2011
For those who are still searching for the right koi or fish for their pond, i suggest you buy it in a different sizes. Why? Because from my experience(less than a year,huh!huh!), you will see their growth by comparing the smallest with the biggest one. I can see a lot of growth in my smallest koi that i've bought the same day with the biggest one.
The tricky part is, my pond is quite deep and i don't have the net!(gotta buy one!)And of course, a temporary place for the shooting. Herm! I think my wife's big coctail bowl will do the work. After all, i've never seen her using that bowl.shhhhhh!
Please do not offend to those who has $$$ koi. The most expensive koi that i have is only RM15.
It's good to be proud of what you've rather than killing your own self esteem to others.
My english is getting worse and worse!)
Monday, January 24, 2011
Hi. It's been a while now. Kindda busy somehow,somewhere...Anyway, just wanna share some update on my koi pond. Nothing much, just added 2 big vases(taken from my great great grandmother's house)with lots of cattail plant. All of it are free. For those who wants this plant for free and live around alor setar area, just ask me and i'll show you where you can get it for free and easy. :) It has it's price in the market ,you know. Just ask Nursery, you have to pay for RM 20.00++ or higher.
And my koi are doing just fine. Well fed and i can see growth. Can't control algae but constant maintainance on changing water and cleaning matt(filters) will do the work. What do you expect from direct sunlight..+ algae = **spirulina**LOL
P/S: How's my english,guys? Haven't write or speak for ages!!!!